Bollywood movies are undergoing a wine renaissance

Like many young Indians in the ’90s, I grew up watching Amitabh Bachchan take down goons hanging out in seedy beer bars in Bollywood movies. He wore a faded leather jacket and a red bandana around his neck, dressed like an aviator at night, proudly dressed in formal clothing. He was usually tasked with rescuing helpless maidens against drunken thugs. The villains staggering around with bottles in their hands were a satire of debauchery.

One thing is clear: if they are drinking, there will be problems.

This was the image of alcohol in India. The villain drinks hooch, the rich villain drinks wine, and the heroine doesn’t drink unless she accidentally takes a sip and experiences misfortune by getting drunk during a musical number. (In the blockbuster Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge, popularly known as DDLJ, there is a scene where Kajol is dancing drunk on a city street while Shah Rukh Khan tries to pacify her.) (Cue song “Zara sa jhoom rune mein.”) But almost 30 years later. , that depiction has evolved. Bollywood is a big part of India’s zeitgeist, and fortunately, the image of alcohol, including wine, is changing.

change perception

“When I was growing up, the women who drank wine[in Bollywood movies]were the bad guys, with a glass in one hand and a cigarette in the other, doing evil things,” said Naidu Wines owner and founder. says Ragni Naidu. In California. “Wine is now seen as a more sophisticated way of life.”

Naidu is one of the few Indian immigrant women making wine in the United States. She grew up in Punjab and left India in 2001, where her ‘Dil Chafta Hai’ debuted. It is a story about the misfortunes of three college graduates who are her best friends. She said the film had a big influence on her generation because it was realistic and casual, but the male characters were in control when it came to drinking.

“Up until about 2010, wine was still a very backroom affair. It was for the tuxedo-wearing, ooh-la-la, air-kissing crowd. The people who were drinking these wines were… I was living in a five-star hotel.”

According to beverage market analysis firm IWSR, the future of wine in India is promising. Cultural shifts have created beneficial consumer trends that allow access to underserved demographics. “Both on TV and in movies, young, insightful characters are drinking wine, and…the connection is starting to break in the minds of many consumers,” IWSR research analyst Jason Holway reported. did.

“The women who drink wine in movies are now educated, have jobs and make their own life decisions,” says Naidu. “It’s a very normal background for the modern way of life.”

This is evident in the film ‘Rocky Aur Rani Ki Prem Kahaani’ which was released this year. Rani, played by Alia Bhatt, casually enjoys a glass of wine with her family over dinner. Ranveer Singh, who plays Rocky, was surprised and commented that even his girlfriend’s grandmother was pouring a glass. It’s an obvious teaching moment when Rani’s father responds, “And?” There are a few more scenes in the movie where the women drink, but this time no one pays attention.

changing economics

“Up until about 2010, wine was still a very backroom affair. It was for the tuxedo-wearing, ooh-la-la, air-kissing crowd. The people who were drinking these wines were… I was in a star hotel,” says Gagan Sharma, a certified sommelier and owner of Indulge India, an Indian wine education and tourism services provider. Sharma believes wine is becoming more popular both in and out of cinema because it has become more available. In the past, only the wealthy could afford this drink.

“Traveling or studying abroad means exceptional wine and dining experiences. We enjoy it and want to see it in the country.”

In the late 80s and 90s, Yash Raj Films glorified travel. It was often filmed in gorgeous foreign locations such as Switzerland, Germany, and London. This year, Switzerland paid tribute to the late director Yash Chopra, who introduced the country with blockbuster films like ‘Chandni’ and ‘Daal’. For Indian viewers, these films were a window into a snow-capped destination and a ticket to travel instead.

According to the Central Statistical Institute, the median income of Indian households in 2007 almost doubled in seven years, even after adjusting for inflation. This meant that people could afford extra income and travel to the dream locations of their favorite movies. Europe was no longer just for the rich and famous, nor was it a stage for Bollywood. Travel to places like France, Italy and the US have led Indian consumers to embrace local cuisine, and wine has become a big part of that.

Currently, India is a very promising market for beverage alcohol with ample growth potential. According to his 2022 numbers for IWSR, spirits sales volume increased by 12%, beer by 38%, RTD by 40% and wine by 19%.

“I think (some) Indians have a lot of disposable income and are earning more and more,” Naidu said. “Traveling or studying abroad means exceptional wine and dining experiences. We enjoy it and want to see it in the country.”

According to the Indian Journal of Psychiatry, when median incomes were on the rise, Bollywood films released between 2001 and 2010 depicted fewer wine and beer than in previous decades. It was said to be the most common. It also portrayed wine in a more positive light, associated with fun and relaxation, with wine being enjoyed in restaurants, bars, and clubs, and the female lead enjoying it.

I remember being fascinated by Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara when it was released in 2011. And it’s not just because it stars the dreamy Hrithik Roshan. The film tells the story of a trio of friends who go on a solo trip around Spain. I remember being drawn to the way the characters effortlessly enjoyed wine, whether it was an engagement party where the family clinked glasses of champagne or a cafe in Barcelona where they ordered red for the table.They were Indian–and do not have And the concept of casual wine drinking didn’t feel out of place.

“It’s only in the last 10 years or so that I’ve seen wine being recognized in India. When I get home and I go to a restaurant, I see people drinking wine, there’s a good wine list, there’s som on the floor. Masu.”

Recent movies like “Good Newwz”, “Love Aaj Kal”, “Love Aaj Kal 2”, “Piku”, “Ae Dil Hai Mushkil”, etc. have shown various scenes of family dinners, restaurant outings, parties, etc. A scene appears. , Women and older people also drink wine. Popular TV shows such as MasterChef India show home cooks, including housewives, experimenting with ingredients from around the world such as butternut squash, macadamia nuts and wine.

This cultural acceptance has taken decades, and we still have a long way to go. With wine accounting for less than 1% of India’s growing alcohol market, there is no arguing that spirits are the drink of choice. However, wine was now available to the middle class. And regions like Nashik in Maharashtra are promoting big wineries like Sula Vineyards, York Winery and Chandon India, and their tasting rooms are packed with tourists. People are curious, and it’s not just people in big cities.

Indian food experience

Located a world away in New York City, Michelin-starred Semma is currently one of the most exciting Indian restaurants in the United States. Operations Director Santo Pesate oversees the wine list.

He pours wines from regions such as the California Jura and his native Spain, and inspires people to explore different varietals with food. Currently, there are no Indian wines on the list, but Indian-American producer Rajat Parr’s Californian “Sandy” Chardonnay is featured.

“Cricket and Bollywood, that’s what my childhood was all about,” says Parr, who grew up in Calcutta until he was 22. He remembers watching movies, his favorite being the Amitabh Bachchan-Dharmendra classic Sholai, but he doesn’t remember the wine on screen.

“My parents drank whiskey and beer,” Parr says. “It’s only in the last 10 years or so that I’ve seen wine being recognized in India. When I get home and I go to a restaurant, I see people drinking wine, there’s a good wine list, there’s som on the floor. Masu.”

Parr has noticed a growing trend of pairing Indian food with good wine. (His favorite pairing is skin-contact white wine and chicken tikka.) Naidu sells a three-pack of Diwali wines online, and people are looking for better wine options to pair with Indian food. says.

New York City restaurants such as Chef Manish Mehrotra’s Indian Accent and Rajesh Bhardwaj’s Junoon have extensive award-winning wine lists. Indian Accent also carries India’s Sula Brut Tropical Cremant de Nashik.

No Bollywood actor owns a wine label in India yet, but I predict this trend will come soon. Meanwhile, India is producing big-budget films and growing its domestic wine industry. And if Bollywood sells stories, and stories sell wine, it’s only a matter of time before wine becomes as much a household item as his dusty DVD of DDLJ.